Wednesday, May 14, 2008

In the Grip of the Grape #1

I have been recently accused of being both a fraud and a miser by not sharing some of the education in wine that I have acquired over the years. A fraud because the experience that I claim might not in fact exist. A miser, because if this knowledge does exist, I never share it. I have to say that nothing is further than the truth. (OK, I am a fraud, but that's simply the false sense of confidence that allows me to write this blog in the first place.) I have already shared some of that experience in previous postings on both red and white wine. I chose at that time however, not to impose my tastes on anyone as I don't like to pick wines for others unless and until I know their taste. (Great people talk about ideas, average people talk about things, and small people talk about wine. - Fran Lebowitz) 

It has been requested that I share specific information on either something really good that I would recommend or something really bad that I would stay away from in this venue though; and being someone who finds it difficult to turn down the opportunity to share my opinions (even when I am not asked), I decided to accede. I have chosen to title these irregular offerings "In the Grip of the Grape" after an idea for a restaurant and wine store that never got off the ground. Please remember that these are my opinions on the subject, and while they are based on over 25 years of consuming fermented grape juice, they may mean nothing at all to you. You may find that you disagree wildly with what I think, or you may find that I have introduced you to a new favorite. Wine is all a matter of time, taste, and self-education; and half the fun is trying new things. So don't be afraid of anything, and above all enjoy.

The Good
While I would have to say that I drink more red wine than white, there are a number of white wines that I enjoy. One of them is an inexpensive little Australian Chardonnay called Black Opal. Now there are two kinds of Chardonnay, one that has a dry, almost citrus taste to it. The other has a more earthy and buttery feel. Black Opal is that latter. The malolactic fermentation that this wine goes through reduces the acid flavors and gives the wine a hint of buttered popcorn. At $6 to $7 a bottle, it is well worth the effort to keep some of this around. Chill it fully, but leave it out once opened. You will be amazed how the flavor changes (and improves) as the wine warms to room temperature.  
The Better 
As Cabernet became more expensive, I found myself searching for any and all alternatives. It is not that I don't like Cabs, I just couldn't afford the ones that I wanted. One of the wines that I was introduced to was Zinfandel. No, not White Zinfandel, the Kool Aid of wine; but a red of surprising quality and complexity. One of my favorites is Cline "Ancient Vine" Zinfandel. Now in order to get the ancient vine designation, the wine vines must be at least 50 years old. This means that the grapes themselves grow in small, very limited bunches; and that the grapes in these bunches are very small as well. The size and scarcity of fruit does an incredible job of concentrating flavors in the wine. Don't be surprised if you taste hints of blackberry, raspberry, cherry, chocolate, or even coffee in it. While not as inexpensive as the Black Opal, it is never the less a bargain at around $17. 

 

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